2005-07-20

Emeishan

Leshan

Emeishan och Mt. Emeishan

1 500 km sydväst om Beijing, 180 km från Chengdu med tåg eller buss till Leshan. Vandringen upp till toppen är 40-50 km. Buss och linbana till Jinding - Den gyllene toppen/The Golden Summit på 3 075 m, toppen är 3 099. Den första helgedomen skapades på bergstoppar och Emei är därför ett av Kinas fyra heliga buddistiska berg. Hela berget är upptaget på UNESCOs världsarvslista. Varit bebott i 10 000 år, den frsta plats där buddhismen fick fäste på kinesiskt territorium. Ursprungligen fanns fler än 150 kloster på Emeiberget, idag återstår ett 20-tal. De flesta kloster och tempel byggdes under den östliga Handynastin 23-220 f Kr. Andra senare. Under Ming-och Quingdynastinerna 1368-1911 byggdes över 100 tempel, däribland Fuhuklostret. Flera av byggnaderna skadades svårt under kulturrevolutionen då rödgardisterna hade i uppdrag att utrota buddhismen, jaga bort munkarna och förstöra klostren. 

Övernatta i Wanniansi - Tiotusenårstemplet, vegetarisk mat och gitarrgrodor i klosterträdgården. Speciell vegetation m över 3 000 olika växter däribland 1 200 medicinalörter, 500 slags blommor. Ca 320 växtarter finns bara på just detta ställe och berget lockar varje år till sig åtskilliga botanister. Bambu, raps, mullbärsträd, rhododendron, granar, palmer, cypresser, cedrar, kamfer, azalea, vallmo- och berberväxter. Flera tusen år gammal skog. 2 300 djurarter, 157 sällsynta och finns endast här. Fina naturupplevelser; trånga passager, friska vattendrag, vackra utsikter, halvvilda, snoende apor, samt Lilla pandan, det rödbruna kattlika djuret som tillhör halvbjörnarna. Tepaus vid Det klara ljudets paviljong. Branta klippsidor, stilla dalar, kristallklara floder, oframkomliga skogar och vilda bergspass  [www.imhresurs.se]

Description : A Buddhist pilgrim mountain for trekkers and Chinese tourists alike who come to see the sunrise at the submit. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996.

Comments : You can go up and down quite effortless by taking a bus/cable car combination but to really enjoy the site, you have to be prepared to walk and sweat a minimum...

What to do : Queue with the tourists for the cable car up or down or fight your way to the submit /  Loose your breath by going up / Kill your knees by going down / Rest in monasteries / Negotiate with the monks for a reasonable price / Fight or feed monkeys / Shout with the Chinese at the sun / Try to distinguish something in the valley below between the clouds / Meets thousand years old trees / 

What you may not like : Sweating too much / The admission fee / The hyper commercialism of the place / The traffic jam on the path / The concrete path with a lot of stairs / The freezing temperature at the submit / The very basic accommodations in monasteries and the high cost at the summit /  The magnificent view of rubbish on one side of the mountain / The way the Chinese tourists enjoy a sunrise / The sight of poor colored-dressed monkeys / The aggressiveness of non-colored-non-dressed monkeys /

How to come here ? The train station is 3.5 km from Emei Town, itself 6.5 km from Baoguo Village, the base of the mountain. Frequent bus ply the road during the day, usually up to 18pm. By public transport from the Train Station to Emei Town, it should cost 1Y but you will have to walk 300 meter from the Station to the main road (exit straight, turn right and wait for a bus on the opposite side of the road). Once arrived at the bus station in Emei Town,  take another public bus to Baoguo for 1Y (they go even if empty so it is worth waiting a bit for them) A lot of private bus will however try to persuade you to wait and to spend more...

Where to get infos ? At Teddy Bear Restaurant (5590135), on the right when you exit the Lian Yun Bus Station. Mr. He Yao Qing, the manager, speak English and will tailor you an itinerary according to your needs. He can also find you a good room, keep your bag (2Y per day), do your laundry or even bring you to his favorite swimming place... By the way, his restaurant also serve pancakes !

How long ? If you cheat, you can go up and down in one day. But if you wish to check the interesting behavior of the Chinese tourists at sunrise, you will have to spend one night at the summit. If you walk up and down, be prepared for at least 2 days of strenuous exercises, more likely 3 or 4. You can also consider taking the bus on the way up or down only.

What to see ?  The nicest scenery (and monkeys) are to be found between Xianfeng Monastery (1752m) and Wannian Monastery (1020m) via Hongchunping (1120m) and Qinyin Pavilion (710m).

  • How to go up === Take a bus from Baoguo to Qingyin Pavilion (2Y) and from there walk to Wannian Monastery (1020m, 3km, 45-60mn), to Xixiang Pond (2070m, 14km, 3-5hrs), to Jieyin Hall (2540m, 9km, 2-3hrs) and to Golden Summit (3077m, 2 km, 45-60mn). * As the buses to Qingyin are rather infrequent, you may have to take one to Wannian Monastery instead, 18km away (2Y). * If you are tired toward the end and feel like queuing a bit, you can take a cable car from Jieyin Hall to the Golden Summit (40Y up). * If you want to take it easy, you can take a bus from Baoguo directly to Jieyin Hall (20Y, leave when really packed).

  • How to go down === From the summit, walk down to Jieyin Hall (2km, 30-45mn), to Xixiang Pond (9km, 2-3hrs), to Xianfeng Monastery (1752m, 6km, 1-2hrs) to Hongchuanping (1120m, 5km, 1-2hrs) to Qinyin Pavilion (710m, 6km, 1-2hrs). From Qinyin, walk or take a bus (Y5) down to Wuxiangang and from there a bus back to Baoguo (Y5, late bus at 18:30) * If you still have a lot of energy, you could also walk the 10km from Qingyin to Fuhu Monastery (2-4 hrs). Baoguo is another km away.

  • How long going up === First option (6 to 10 hrs) : Bus to Wannian (18km, 2Y). Walk to Xixiang (3-5hrs) to Jieyin (1-3hrs) to Golden Summit (1-2hrs) * Second option (12 to 15 hrs) : Bus to Wannian. Walk to Qingyin (1 hr), to Hongchunping (6km, 2 hrs), to Xianfeng (2 hrs), to Yuxian (2 hrs), to Jiulingang (1hr) to Xixiang (2 hrs) to Jieyin (1-3 hrs) to Golden Summit (1-2 hrs) * Third option : Walk to Qingyin (1hr) to Monkeys (1hr), back to Qingyin (1hr) to Zhongfeng (2 hr) to Chunyang (1 hr) to Baoguo (1 hr)

Where to stay ?   Hotels

At the train Station : Fu Guang Lu Guan (5521 353), opposite the train station, on the left of the tourist info center / Dorm 15 / Comfortable Sgl (big bed) or Dble with bath 30 and 40 /

At Baoguo Base : Teddy Bear Restaurant, on the right when you exit the Lian Yun Bus Station / Mr. He, the manager, can get foreigners a 50% discount in the relatively nice opposite hotel. This means that a good Dble with attached bath will cost 120 and a bed in a more basic 4 beds or 2 bed's rooms 20 or 30 
 

Leshan och Leshan Giant Buddha

Sittande buddhan i Leshan Världens största buddha, också upptagen på UNESCOs världsarvslista; 70 m hög, (14,7 m huvud, 7 m öron, 5,6 m näsa) höggs ut i bergväggen 713, färdig 803. 600 000 besökare/år, 40 km från Emei. Vid tre floder som löper samman; Minjiang, Quingui och Dadu. Buddhan skulle beskydda de många handelsmännen, när de skulle passera den starka strömmen. "Berget är Buddha och Buddha är berget" ett buddhistiskt ordspråk. Restaurerad i flera omgångar, ett avancerat inre dräneringssystem skyddar figuren från erosion. Varje år begår 1-2 kineser självmord när de ser Buddhas ljus, sker vid sällsynta tillfällen, när solens strålar reflekteras i diset och bildar en halvcirkelformad halo. Detta ses som ett tecken på att man stiga direkt in i Nirvana och varje år kastar sig pilgrimer ut över klippkanten i hopp om att uppnå detta tillstånd.  [www.imhresurs.se]

By train: The city of Leshan is not directly accessible by train, but since the city is only 37km east of Emeishan mountain and is usually visited as a stop en-route to or leaving Emeishan (which has its own railway station), one can arrive by train from Chengdu in the north, or Kunming in the south, to Emeishan and take a bus from here along the express way linking Emeishan and Leshan. The trip from Emeishan to Leshan costs less than RMB5. For details on getting to Emeishan by train see Emeishan Transportation.

  • Description : A fairly relaxed town with the biggest Buddha in the world and a lot of smaller ones. 

  • Comments : After or before Emeishan, from or to Chengdu, Leshan is a nice and interesting transit place which was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.

  • What to do : Take  the measure of Dafo's feet or ears / Count the number of Buddha at the Oriental Buddha Park / Check the best looking arhat at the Wuyou Temple / Talk with Mr. Yang / Eat MrsYang's cooking / Leave a trace of your passage in Mr. Yang's book (basically : "Mr. Yang is friendly and Mrs. Yang cooking is good") / In the early evening, see old Chinese practicing "modern" dances, tai chi or meditation /

  • What you may not like : The entrance fee at Grand Buddha / Trying to write something original in Mr. Yang's book (criticizing would be fairly original but it would not be fair)

  • Where to get infos ?  Leshan is fairly easy to visit but if you want to visit the surroundings, go to the Yang's Restaurant, 49 Baita Jie (2112046), about 200 meters on the left after Jiazhou Hotel. Mr. Richard Yang, a former English teacher, organize tours to villages for US$15 and has information on a lot of places (as well as on yourself as he checks every arrival at the Taoyuan Hotel). He also claims to be able to get you a Yangzi river 1st class tickets for the price of a 2nd class ticket (464Y instead of 928Y from Chongqing to Yichang)

  • How long ? Half a day is enough to check the sights but if you start talking with Mr. Yang..

What to see / visit ?

  • [14] The Grand Buddha : (5), Y40 /A must seen does not mean a must visit. You can have a look at it from a boat going to Wuyou Pier (and onward) every hour from 6:30 to 18:30. After, you can decide whether or not it is worth Y40.

  • [20] Wuyou Monastery : (3), Y5 /A nice view from the top and an interesting 500's arhets gallery /  You'll pass the Grand Buddha to go there and from there, you can do a nice walk down the mountain to a bridge, restaurants and other sights. You can skip the sights by walking round the hill on Lingyun Lu. On the other side, you will find the small ferry crossing the Min River

  • [18] Oriental Buddha Park : (3), Y25, Exp / Houses a collection of 3000 buddha from Asia as well as the longest reclining buddha in the world (170m) / From there, you can go up Lingyun Hill to arrive at the Grand Buddha Temple.

Where to stay ? Hotels 

  • [12] Taoyuan Hotel (2131810) / Perfectly located opposite the Ferry piers / Dbl without bath 50 but 25 for Sgl occupancy after negotiation / Dbl with bath 100 without negotiation / Correct toilets & bath / HW 17 to 24 // Go there for the excellent quality-price ratio after negotiation, the friendliness of the young staff, the location,... / What you may not like : the decrepitude of the rooms, entering in Mr. Yang's database by registering here,...

  • Hong Cheng Lu She (2122010), 200 m on the left when you exit the North Bus Station, next to a bicycle shop / Small entrance but OK rooms / Dorm 10 in 2 bed's rooms / Sgl 12 / Big Sgl with big bed 30 / Dbl with bath 60 / Toilet & bath acceptable / HW 24 hours // Go there for the best rate in town, if you do not want to go down from the bus station,... What you may not like : the Chinese atmosphere, the management, the "do not look so clean" rooms

  • Hong Li Lai (2127137), 100m on the left when you exit the North Bus Station / Nice Trpl 54 / OK bath / Chinese style toilets / HW 24 hours // Go there if you are with 2 friends.

  • [3] Leshan Education Hotel. Biligt med låg standard.

  • [21] Xiandao Hotel. Lägre medelklass.

Climate

 Month       Jan  Feb  Mar  Apr  May  Jun  Jul  Aug  Sep  Oct  Nov  Dec
 Air    C      7   10   15   20   23   26   29   30   25   19   14   11
        F     45   50   58   67   73   78   84   86   77   66   57   51
 Rain  mm     15   20   38   99  142  180  142  122  150  112   48   20
       in     .6   .8  1.5  3.9  5.6  7.1  5.6  4.8  5.9  4.4  1.9   .8

 

Schedules : 

Bus Schedules :

Emei Town Price Type Duration Time Nb Freq.
Baoguo 1 ordi 20 min day time ++ 30mn
Leshan 4 ordi 45 min day time ++ when full
Chengdu 15 to 30 ordi/luxe 3h up to 18 ++ ?
Leshan Price Type Duration Time Nb Freq.
Chengdu 18/31 ordi/"Luxe" 3 to 5 7:30 to 18 ++ 30mn
Emeishan 4 ordi 1 up to 18 ++ 15mn

Train Schedules :

Järnvägssträckan Chengdu-Kunming, invigdes 1970, "en seger över 1 000 berg och 1 000 floder", mer än 100 mil går denom några av de mest otillgängliga områdena i landet, bl a höga bergskedjor, söderskurna av virvlande floder. 474 tunnlar, mer än 650 broar

Station Km K166 K146 K118 N872 N853 N856 K144 5622
Emei 593 10.42 12.12 19.27 03.15 04.18 05.46 09.03
Leshan 612 11.04       04.38   09.22
Chengdu S 725       05.12 06.19   11.14
Chengdu 749 12.58 14.34 22.08     07.01