2009-08-31

Tiger spångs Klyftan

 Tigerspångs Klyftan Tigerspång Klyftan

Qiaotou

Tiger spång Klyftan

Links=> [1]  [2]  [3]  [4]  [5]

Tigerspångsklyftan

 

What to do : Sweat / Dream at the scenery / Get sensations by walking the narrow path / Drink rewarding beers at guesthouses along the trail

What you may not like : To be hurried by the time / Not being alone on the trail / The Chinese tourism at the lower path / Loosing your way / Not finding the higher path / Not being fit enough to walk the higher path / The rip-off "river crossing" fee : 10Y at the old ferry or 12Y at the new ferry / The rip-off "road crossing" fees of between 2Y and 5Y at various places when visiting the Middle Rapids of TLG, refusal to pay this may incur fighting / The entrance fee : Y30 at either Qiaotou or Walnut Grove


How to do it ?

  1. The high path : long, strenuous & dangerous but amazing view : this is the "real" stuff. To find it from Qiaotou, walk 80m after the "entrance-fee short cut" or 200m after the entrance, take the large road on the left, pass a school sport yard, take the small path going up and follow the arrows of various colors.

  2. The low path : relatively easy, relatively flat, relatively boring. You can really walk in good condition from Walnut Grove to Km 9 only : from Qiaotou to km 9 is the domain on the Chinese tourist cars and buses (the Chinese come to see the Tiger Leaping Rock at Km 10) and you will have to take a lift or bring a mask gas as the road is transformed into a big dust cloud... (Note: From Qiaotou to km 9 the low path is already paved, therefore much less dust. The pavement of the rest of the low path is in progress and is expected to complete before the end of 2002. Just imagine trekking the paved low path! )

  3. Jag planerar att ta den höga leden först till Tea Horse Trade Guesthouse and Peace Gorge Guesthouse 12,2  km (3h23m). Sedan går jag ner till den låga leden som tar 1h00m. Sedan går jag de 11 km tilbaka till l Qiaotou. Det bör ta ytterligare 2h12m. Totalt tar det ca 6½ timmar i vandrings tid. Om jag går till Halfway Guesthouse 17,3km (4h48m) + 1h00m för att komma ner till den nedre vägen + 14km (2h48m) för att komma tillbaka till Qiaotou. Totalt tar det ca 8½ timmar i vandrings tid. Vandringshastigheter ca 4,8km/h men under de 28 kurvorna endast 2,0km/h (Det tog ca 3 timmar att gå ca 6km mellan Naxi och Tea Horse ink stopp före och efter 28 bends.)

Vandringstider för mig 10h27m 36km (netto ~9h.00m)
Qiaotou - Gorge Tiger Café...... 07.15 (0h00m)  0,0km
Naxi Family Guesthouse.......... 08.45 (1h30m)  6.3km
28 Bends toppen (stopp 2x10min). 10.30 (3h15m)  -----
Tea Horse Trade Guesthouse.(A).  11.35 (4h20m) 12.2km
Tea Horse Trade Guesthouse.(D).  12.15 (5h00m)  -----
Väg kosning ner till low path..  13.15 (6h00m) 16.3km
Halfway Guesthouse.(A).......... 13.30 (6h15m) 17,3km
Halfway Guesthouse.(D).......... 14.00 (6h45m)  -----
Till low path Road (stone 14km). 14.53 (7h38m) 21.7km
Distance stone 181km ........... 15.01 (7h46m) 22.4km
Distance stone 194km ........... 17.35 (10h20) 35.4km
Qiaotou - Gorge Tiger Café...... 17.42 (10h27) 36.0km

Two places to start (for the high path)

  • From Qiaotou : Buses from Lijiang to Zhongdian stop at Qiaotou, 7:30/8/9 etc to 15:00, 2h30, 13½Y

Advantages : Cheaper as you can avoid the entrance fee / You do the difficult walk the first day, when you are not tired / The path is somehow better indicated as Seam is leading the trekkers to his guesthouse.

Disadvantages : Buying a bus ticket might be problematic during the HS (see "Trip from Lijiang to Tiger L.G.") / Taking the high path, you will need to walk at least 4 to 8 hours to reach the first accommodation so start early if you want to take it easy ! / The path is slightly more difficult this way / The last bus from Daju to Lijiang leave at 13:30

  • From Daju : Buses from Lijiang, 7:30/8, etc up to 13:30, 3 hours, 23.5Y

Advantage : You need only 2 to 3 hours to reach Walnut Grove from Daju (with a 20mn jeep ride to just before the river crossing, Y5 for the old ferry or Y10 for the new ferry) which means no stress / The last bus from Qiaotou to Lijiang pass at 18:30

Disadvantages : The road between Daju and Walnut Grove is nice but not that spectacular so it could be easily skipped.

 

Tigerspång Klyftan (Tiger Leaping Gorge)

         Qiaotou MAP JPEG PDF  Daju MAP JPEG PDF

 

Where to stay ?

At Qiaotou :

  • Gorge Village Hotel, Xia Gu Chun (0887 880 6246), opposite Backpacker's Cafe, Dorm 10Y in 2/3 bed's room, Dble 25, Dble with bath 120Y / Restaurant

  • Jade Dragon Hotel "Lotus Hotel" (0887 8806 196), on the right from Bus Station, Dorm 12/15Y in 5/3 bed's room, Dble with bath 160Y / Restaurant

On the high path (kilometers from Qiaotou): (0km - 18km) 2,0 - 4,8 km/h

  • Naxi Family Guesthouse, (6.3km), Nuo Yu Village, 1.5-2 hours from Qiaotou, 5-8 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant [1h19m]

  • Old Horse Guesthouse, (6.5km), on a separate path, Nuo Yu Village, 40mn walking up from low path at 6.5 km, 1.5-2 hours from Qiaotou, 5-8 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic [1h21m)

  • Tea Horse Trade Guesthouse and Peace Gorge Guesthouse (12.2 km), Ya Cha Corner, 5mn between the two, 1 hour walking up from low path at 11 km, 3-6 hours from Qiaotou, 3-5 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant [4h16m]

  • Halfway Guesthouse, (17.3km), Ben Di Wan Village, 1 hour walking up from low path at 14 km, 4-8 hours from Qiaotou, 2-4 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y,12Y or 15Y in 1,2,3 or 4 bed's rooms / Basic but what a view (check the toilets...) / Hot water /Restaurant [5h20m]

  • Five Fingers Mountain Guesthouse, (18.2km), Ben Di Wan Village, 4-8 hours from Qiaotou, 2-3.5 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant / From here it is 3.6 km or 1.5-2.5 hours to Tina's Guesthouse on the low path [5h31m]

  • Tina's Guesthouse (21,8km). [6h20m]. Det tar således ca 2h20m extra denna väg!

Special thanks to Feng Defang, the owner of Halfway Guesthouse for all the high path kilometer data.

On the low path (kilometers from Qiaotou): (18km-23km) 5,0 km/h

  • Woody No.2 (Zhongxia Meijing Shanzhuang), (18km) / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant [3h36m]

  • Teacher Zhang's Guesthouse, (18.5km)  / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant [3h42m]

  • Tina's Guesthouse, (20km), in front of the path going up to the high path, 45mn from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant / If you are walking the low path to Qiaotou, take the shortcut just before the Guesthouse to avoid 1.5km of turning road. [4h00m]

  • Midgorge Guesthouse, (21km), The former Ya Cha Hotel / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant [4h12m]

At Walnut Grove (23 km from Qiaotou): [4h36m]

  • Chateau Woody, the first one from Daju / Great view from the clean room for 10Y or 15Y per bed in 1, 2 or 3 bed's room / Hot water in the evening / Clean Toilets / Restaurant 

  • Sean's Guesthouse "Spring Guesthouse", the first one from Qiaotou / Dorm 15 in 8 or 12 bed's rooms / Dorm 20 in Dble / 42 big beds / Hot water / Restaurant

At Daju :

  • Snowflake Hotel or Tiger Leaping Gorge Hotel have cheap beds

 

Jag har försök att sortera bilderna så gott det går. Har använt två kameror. Första dan gick för att reka lite och ta lite bilder, om vädret skulle göra det omöjligt att vandra dagen där på. Började vandra klockan 11.45 och var ute totalt ca 3 timmar (med mat stopp på 40 min). Andra dagen gick jag ända till Half way (och tillbaka). Större bilder finns HÄR!